One pit, one man,a lot of turkey legs

SurviaExpress Inc. is Bo Survia’s barbecue company, based in Houston, Texas.

Bo cooks oak-smoked turkey legs, smoked links and BBQ chicken — any piece, from wings to thighs — for small affairs and parties, the kind of gathering where the food is set out on a table and everybody comes back for a second pass.

He runs the pit himself, and he is the one who answers the phone. That is on purpose: when you call to ask whether turkey legs will stretch to fifty people, you should be talking to the person who has smoked a few thousand of them.

If you have eaten at a SurviaExpress table, you know the shape of it: a loaded tray of turkey legs, links sliced hot and chicken any way you want it, sides made that morning, and a host who is already planning the next one.